When this pattern came out I was swamped with my Bombshell Dress for the Husqvarna Viking Convention, so I started this a day after I got back from gorgeous Orlando, Florida (I seriously need to go back there!). For the fabric I used white with black polka dot stretch sateen and the contrast was black stretch sateen. Now, I know I’ve made about 100 garments with this polka dot fabric but I simply LOVE it and can’t help myself. I think it turned out perfect though.
I cut out a size 10, which should have been a bit tight in the hips but I wanted a tight pinup dress and I was using stretch fabric. Turns out a 10 fit just right (not tight) in the hips and everything else was too big, especially the bust area. Next time I’ll made the bust a 6, waist a 8 and hips 10. My measurements are 33-28-36 if that helps give an idea of sizing. This pattern is true to Butterick sizing (lots of ease). I know I have an awful time with Gertie’s personal patterns from her book, they don’t fit pear shapes well AT ALL!
After moving my kitty cat off the pattern (a few times…) I finally got started. The directions are very simple and straightforward. I did have issues on a few here and there. First one was #9, it’s just a little confusing. This is where you sew the contrast bust collar flaps (whatever they are called) onto the bodice part of the dress. The issue is that you have to ease the bodice into the collar flaps, there is an extra inch or 2 of fabric so you end up with … well “boob room”. At first I thought I cut something too short but this is correct, and actually does help out in the long run (if you have bigger boobs, I guess).
This was the first time I’ve worked with a godet (the slit flap), it is kind of awkward at first but is actually very simple. I love how the contrast of the godet matches the collar flaps – so pretty! I realized afterward I probably should have understitched the godet on the right and left side, so it would lay hidden a bit better.
Other than those tiny details everything was smooth sailing! I did a blind hem on both the bottom of the dress and the sleeves. For the godet I did a regular hem with a second hem line above it. I did it this way because the godet hem is circular and I wanted to sew down any puckering from hemming. I do have to say this dress was gorgeous even before I put the sleeves on, so you could make it a sleeveless option too! I finished all of my seams with my serger so there wouldn’t be any fraying. You could also use pinking shears for a more ‘vintage’ feel.
Inside of the dress:
(Ignore my buttonholes please… my sewing machine isn’t equipped to do successful normal looking buttonholes – it rather make my life a living hell and look like a 2-year tried to do them.)
I had a hard time getting the bust collar flaps to stay down, but that could be because I’m using a cheap $10 iron (my Rowenta is at the iron hospital). I’m sure if I just pressed the hell out of it, it would have been better. Either way – it’s such a pretty bust area!
The pattern calls for covered buttons, but honestly I was being lazy. I love how mine came out, so doesn’t really matter!
So, for this post you get a brand new model! Meet Andrea, she’s one of my best friends! You may remember her from my previous Itty Bitty Baby Dress (Made By Rae) post. I made her some adorable baby clothes for her baby shower. Well, she’s since had the baby and now you get to see how cute baby Bailey is and how fashionable she looks in her dress that matches!
Andrea told me how Bailey was going to be wearing the Itty Bitty Baby Dress to her cousin’s wedding and I instantly started asking her to wear my newest dress and promised her it was super cute. She agreed before seeing it – that’s a true friend! I finished up the dress Friday night and met up her the next morning. She loved it and I think she looks gorgeous wearing it
And one more with Bailey it in, because she’s honestly too cute for words!
Overall I would recommend this pattern, it’s pretty quick (except cutting it out… but that’s any pattern with more than 2 pieces) and easy. The hardest part will be the bust collar flaps, but even that isn’t hard. I think it’s super adorable and very vintage. I wouldn’t use too heavy of a fabric since it is a wrap dress and the under layer might lay weird or bulk.
And what would this blog be without a picture of me telling Guinness I’m going to bite his face off and him mocking me?!